201 KAR 12:088. Esthetic course of instruction.


      RELATES TO: KRS 317B.020(1)(d), 317B.025


      NECESSITY, FUNCTION AND CONFORMITY: KRS 317B.020 requires the board to promulgate administrative regulations establishing course work and conduct of school owners, instructors, estheticians, esthetic salons, and cosmetology schools conducting classes in esthetic practices; set the requirements for the proper education and training of students; and set the standard for the hours and courses of instruction in esthetic practices. This administrative regulation establishes requirements for the hours and courses of instruction for esthetician students.


      Section 1. Definition. "Cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating procedures" means the application of cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substances by a licensed practitioner for the purpose of improving the aesthetic appearance of the skin.


      Section 2. The regular course of instruction for esthetician students shall consist courses relating to the two subject areas identified in this section.

      (1) The first area of courses shall relate to professional practices, which shall include:

      (a) The esthetics profession:

      1. Orientation;

      2. History and evolution of skin care;

      3. Esthetics vocabulary;

      4. Ethics: personal and professional; and

      5. State law; and

      (b) Salon procedures:

      1. Hygiene and grooming;

      2. Responsibilities of an esthetician;

      3. Standards and procedures;

      4. Salesmanship;

      5. Personality development; and

      6. Customer relations and business developments.

      (2) The second area of courses shall relate to science, theory and state and federal law relating to the practice, which shall include:

      (a) Life sciences, anatomy and physiology of the skin:

      1. Skin function;

      2. Biochemistry; and

      3. Layers of the skin;

      (b) Body systems:

      1. Skeletal;

      2. Muscular;

      3. Circulatory;

      4. Nervous;

      5. Endocrine;

      6. Immune;

      7. Respiratory;

      8. Digestive;

      9. Reproductive; and

      10. Integumentary;

      (c) Bones, muscles and nerves of the face and skull;

      (d) Chemistry:

      1. Elements, compounds and mixtures;

      2. Composition and uses of cosmetics for the skin and face;

      3. Chemistry of makeup; and

      4. Chemistry of facial treatments and products;

      (e) Bacteriology and sanitation:

      1. Microorganisms;

      2. Sanitation and sterilization; and

      3. State and federal requirements;

      (f) Disorders and diseases:

      1. Dermatological terms;

      2. Lesions;

      3. Common, contagious and other diseases;

      4. Allergens; and

      5. Autoimmune diseases;

      (g) Facials:

      1. Products, supplies and set up;

      2. Benefits, purpose and function;

      3. Procedures including:

      a. Skin analysis;

      b. Consultation;

      c. Deep cleansing;

      d. Exfoliation;

      e. Extractions, including:

      (i) Comedone extractor;

      (ii) Light therapy; and

      (iii) Brushes;

      f. Use of steamer and brush;

      g. Electrodes;

      h. Massage; and

      i. Masks;

      4. Equipment and technological tools:

      a. Machines: use and safety;

      b. Electricity and light therapy; and

      c. Microdermabrasion;

      5. Body treatments:

      a. Sanitation and hygiene;

      b. Cleansing, exfoliation, scrubs and wraps; and

      c. Hydrotherapy;

      (h) Pharmacology:

      1. Over the counter and prescription drugs;

      2. Allergic reactions; and

      3. State and federal requirements;

      (i) Methods of hair removal;

      (j) Make up application:

      1. Color theory;

      2. Facial shapes;

      3. Products, tools and equipment;

      4. Client consultation;

      5. Basic, corrective and camouflage application;

      6. Artificial eye lashes; and

      7. Lash and brow tint;

      (k) Advanced skin care:

      1. Aging;

      2. Reactions to sun;

      3. Sensitive skin;

      4. Ethnic skin;

      5. Exfoliation; and

      6. Alternative skin care; and

      (l) Clinical skin care:

      1. Plastic and reconstructive surgery under the supervision of a medical doctor;

      2. Glycolic peels:

      a. Cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substance and equipment, which includes cosmetic use of the following:

      (i) Thirty (30) percent alpha hydroxy acid (AHAs which include glycolic and lactic acids with a pH of three (3.0) or higher);

      (ii) Zero percent beta hydroxy acid (BHAs which include salicylic acid with a pH of three (3.0) or higher);

      (iii) Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) with levels less than twenty (20) percent;

      (iv) Jessner's solutions fourteen (14) percent salicylic acid, lactic acid, and two (2) percent resorcinol); and

      (v) Proteolytic enzymes (papain and bromelain);

      b. Equipment and instruments that mechanically administer substances, including:

      (i) Brushing machines;

      (ii) Polyethylene granular scrubs;

      (iii) Loofah or textured sponges;

      (iv) Gommage;

      (v) Lancets with blades less than 2mm; and

      (vi) Microdermabrasion instruments, provided the manufacturer has established and substantiated product and equipment safety with the Federal Food and Drug Administration (FDA);

      c. Glycolic peels exclude all other chemical and mechanical exfoliation/peeling procedures and substances, including:

      (i) Carbolic acid (phenol);

      (ii) Products listed above that exceed the stated maximum levels or combinations thereof;

      (iii) Lancets when used to penetrate the stratum corneum or remove hair;

      (iv) All adulterated chemical exfoliating/peeling substances; and

      (v) Devices that penetrate beyond the stratum corneum of the epidermis; and

      d. Cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating procedures;

      3. Microdermabrasion:

      a. The FDA lists microdermabrasion equipment as Class I devices intended for use by licensed practitioners trained in the appropriate use of such equipment; and

      b. For purposes of this rule, microdermabrasion equipment is considered a cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substance only if the equipment is used in a manner that is not intended to remove viable (living) skin below the stratum corneum; and

      4. Pre- and postoperative procedures.


      Section 3. A student of esthetics shall not receive less than 1,000 hours in clinical and theory class work with:

      (1) 350 minimum lecture hours for science and theory;

      (2) Fifty (50) hours of applicable Kentucky statutes and administrative regulations; and

      (3) 600 minimum clinic and practice hours.


      Section 4. A student of esthetics shall have completed 150 hours in clinical and related theory class before working on and providing services to the general public. Clinical practice shall be performed on other students or mannequins during the first 150 hours.


      Section 5. A school of cosmetology shall maintain and teach the curriculum established in this section.

      (1) The curriculum for beginning students shall include:

      (a) Theory and related theory class, 100 hours, which shall include:

      1. General theory, including applicable Kentucky statutes and administrative regulations and applicable federal requirements;

      2. Clinical theory; and

      3. Scientific lecturing theory; and

      (b) Clinical and related theory class with clinical practice class on students or mannequins, 200 hours, which shall include:

      1. Skin analysis;

      2. Esthetic practices;

      3. Diseases and disorders of the skin;

      4. Electricity and light therapy;

      5. Sanitation and sterilization;

      6. Basic facials;

      7. Chemistry;

      8. Color theory and makeup;

      9. Introduction and safety of machines; and

      10. Procedures for arching by tweezing, waxing, or hair removal.

      (2) The curriculum for students with more than 300 hours shall include theory and clinical practice as follows:

      (a) Chemical peels - 100 hours;

      (b) Esthetic practices - 175 hours, which shall include:

      1. Consultation;

      2. Skin analysis;

      3. Facial and body treatments;

      4. Disorders and diseases of the skin;

      5. Electricity and light therapy;

      6. Eyebrow arching by tweezing or waxing;

      7. Skin care machines - proper use and safety;

      8. Techniques of massage;

      9. Artificial eyelash application; and

      10. Lash and brow tinting, and enhancements;

      (c) Facial and body procedures with and without machines including disincrustation, ionization, all skin types, acne, body wraps - 125 hours;

      (d) Makeup application and artistry including corrective and camouflage - fifty (50) hours;

      (e) Removal of excess or unwanted hair - twenty-five (25) hours;

      (f) Beautifying or cleansing of the body with preparations, antiseptics, tonics, lotions or creams - twenty-five (25) hours;

      (g) Providing preoperative and postoperative skin care under the immediate supervision of a licensed physician - seventy-five (75) hours; and

      (h) Salon management - twenty-five (25) hours.


      Section 6. Time not utilized in theory or clinic work and practice shall be used for study periods and library work to be counted toward the necessary number of hours to be completed as established in Sections 2, 3, and 4 of this administrative regulation. (30 Ky.R. 1139; Am. 1568; 1914; eff. 2-16-2004; 40 Ky.R. 379; 1030; eff. 12-6-2013.)